Nicolas Colman Ox Cart Artist

It takes 3-4 months to build one” Nicolas says when I asked about the “carreta” or ox-cart in his front yard. It was there for repairs; actually to be serviced. My friend Nicolas Colman, carpintero extraordinaire, had built this carreta around 15 years ago. One of the many (he doesn’t keep track of these kind of things but at 3-4 a year he could have built quite a number of them) he made on a regular basis in the past.  He says he replaces the axles on these carretas every five years; more if they take too heavy of loads. When there is work available he does it. He has an incredible work ethic.  Nicolas is 74 years old and has been a carpintero in Jhugua for most of those years. He left school in the 3 grade to go to work.

When you see a “carreta de bueys” (bueys are oxen) coming down the road you are immediately struck by the immense size of the bueys and the simplicity of the cart, but these carts are so,so,so,so much more than they appear.  The whole thing is a real working work of art. There are over 100 exact rectangular holes (called mortises in English). Some of these mortises pass through two separate pieces of wood. These mortises must be exactly the same size as the tenons which fit into them or they will be loose. For each mortise there is a tenon which also must be cut and fit exactly. To construct this cart there are only a handful of nails (holding the boards to cover the sides and floor) and 4 bolts that stop the main beam (pulled by the bueys) from sliding forward. The main box consists of a floor frame and two side frames which are completely held together with these mortises. 

The wheel s are a work of art of a different breed. There is a center hub made from a massive block of wood with 14 (he couldn’t tell me why 14 it was how he was taught) precisely spaced mortises which have to accommodate the angle of their spoke’s position on the wheel. Each of these mortises has a spoke with a tenon at each end that reach out to the outer rim of the wheel. This rim is made of 7 exactly arced pieces of wood that fit together to make a perfect 5’ diameter circle which fits into a steel band (to protect it from rocks etc) and keep them all together. The hub has a tapered hole for the axle spindle.

The axle is made from a massive beam of 6’ and sufficient (they are all different depending on the beam available and strength) width and height. Each side has a tapered spindle which must be placed exactly so the wheels do not hit the cart. Nicolas shapes these spindles by hand using a hand saw, axe, and rasp. 

Precision Instruments

Even more precise adjustment

    

There are two tapered cast iron sleeves inside each wheel to protect them from the friction and increase their lifespan. Nicolas uses these sleeves and vast experience; continuously sliding them on and removing them; as the only method of measuring the tapers. When they slide completely into position then they are ready.  There are two sleeves separated by a substantial gap and as I watched I still am amazed at his ability to “eyeball” the taper and complete this task. The axle must be test fit and weighs around 70lbs. We test fit it into the wheels at least 20 times, lugging it around. He said he usually does this part himself (at 74 years old?).

Making this replacement axle took Nicolas 4 days. He was paid less than what an average unskilled worker around here would make in 2 days. It is hard work but he says it was a “gift”.  I worked with him for parts of 2 those days and I can truly say that I received a gift. Being able to share in that knowledge and experience was a gift. He is also a very interesting, fun and funny guy to be around.

Nicolas works on converting stacks of timbers into works of art almost every day. I have watched him work in shorts and flip-flops only in summer, behind a tarp in the rainy season, and bundled up against the cold in winter. He uses only basic hand tools (many of which he makes himself) and his vast store of knowledge and experience. I did not previously mention that electricity is not involved in this production. His power source is himself and occasionally a wayward Peace Corps Volunteer. He laments that it is getting harder and no-one is waiting to learn his craft. I expect he will be working out in front of his house well into his future.

Power Drill

A visit to Fram, Paraguay

As Peace Corps volunteers, we help each other with projects at times. Lending a hand also gives us the opportunity to visit other sites and see different parts of Paraguay. Recently, we traveled to Fram to visit Lydia.  Our home away from home was a church-we just pushed some benches together and threw our sleeping bags on top, while the saints kept watch.

Lydia and I with our outline of South America

Lydia needed some help setting up a world map mural project that she was starting at a school. Our charge was to help with the grid system, then outline each country in paint. The plan was then for students to follow a color code and fill in each country with its corresponding color to complete the mural.

Mark carefully adds Europe to the mural

Next, we brainstormed ideas about why a methane producing biodigester wasn’t functioning properly.  The biodigester which Lydia had constructed with her neighbor had been working the previous month, then seemed to have developed a leak somewhere in the system. Using soapy water, Mark located one leak in the fitting near the burner.

Lydia adds pressure to test the system, (Sorry, Lydia, I just couldn't resist this picture!)

Mark and Lydia add teflon tape to where the fittings join, near the burner

During our visit we also discovered that Fram is a village with a large Ukrainian population. In the 1930’s many of them immigrated to Paraguay, during the Holodomor, described as a starvation-induced genocide, in the Ukraine during Stalin’s regime. Once in Paraguay, the immigrants established a community and began farming.  It was interesting to see their orthodox churches, where in Paraguay,  95% of the population is reportedly Catholic.

It was fun spending time with Lydia- we shared stories and hard drive collections, productive work time, philosophies and ideas, good food, and big hugs.

Stories from the Paraguayan Campo

It occurs to me that my last two blog posts have been lists, as is this one. I guess I am trying to capture the typical things we commonly see and hear, as we near the end of our Peace Corps service. This blog has been our picture journal, chronicling our service, cultural experiences, interactions, and adventures here in Paraguay. How could I not include a story about stories we've heard? Plus, it was a good opportunity to post some of the awesome photos Mark has taken!

In our small community, the people tell stories deeply rooted in nature. Some stories explain good omens, while others warn and caution the listener. This is a short list of some of the stories that have been shared with us:

*  If a butterfly enters your house, someone living there will receive money, (50 mil guaranies, to be exact- about $12.00 US)
 

* If a woodpecker enters your patio, it brings good news with it
 

*  If a humming bird enters your house, it brings good news about your family.
 

* When a new baby is born, place a burning hummingbird nest under her/his bed. The smoke produced will protect the baby from people who might enter the house, (I wasn’t sure if it was from germs or bad omens the people might bring with them).

* The sound produced by jui vacara’y (calf frog), sounds like a young calf and forecasts rain

*  One must be careful not to let a banana frog come into contact with the skin. If this happens, it can hold on so tightly, that it requires another person to pry it off.

* The tail of an opossum should never be touched as it is poisonous

* Toads should be handled carefully, as urine from a toad can cause blindness.

* One should monitor with ceilings and exposed rafters in their homes for “Ura”, a large black moth. If this moth urinates on your on your head, eggs are deposited at the same time. When the eggs hatch, the larvae burrow into the scalp, and grow into a grub under the skin.

So, you may be wondering, which of the above are actually true? After all, we have had a hummingbird enter our house and have received wonderful news from our family at home. We also know that there have been several visits to the health post by people in our village who need grubs removed from beneath their scalps. 

I’m not sure, but I do scan the ceiling for “Ura” from time to time. And when I do have to toss a toad from its hiding place in our house, I carry it “butt down” ensuring it’s urine is nowhere near my eyes….just to be sure…..I guess the “truth” is in the minds of people who choose to believe or not to believe.