The Best Christmas Gift Ever…..

Was a Visit From our Kids!

Our beautiful kids, (minus 1- we missed you, Eliot!)

In late November our kids journeyed all the way to Paraguay to visit us and see some of the sights in South America. It was amazing to see them, listen to stories about their lives, get lots of big hugs, and see that that these wonderful people who we get to call family are doing well and doing good in the world!

Our travels and adventures went something like this…..

After resting and visiting Mercado 4,

Ty at Mercado 4 where he got his guampa, bombilla and possibly his awful stomach bug!

the Peace Corps office, markets, plazas, and other sites in Asuncion for a couple of days, we got a rental car and headed for our community.  During the 4 days in Arazape, our kids got to see our work in site, meet neighbors, experience the culture, and help open a new library in a small barrio school.

Amber and Ashley help pass out books for the new library in Jhugua, Paraguay.

The kids bought guampas, bombillas, and hammocks to take a little piece of Paraguay home with them!

We celebrated Christmas a month early, ate a big pot of beans, and traded gifts of handmade items from Paraguay for jars of peanut butter, spices, Sierra Nevada pale ale, and recorded music from home! Oh, and did I mention that I got to feel my first grandbaby, due in April, kick for the first time?!

Dave’s awesome driving skills took us to Encarnacion, the Jesuit Ruins of Trinidad, then North to Ciudad de Este. We crossed the Rio Parana on a ferry to Argentina, and arrived at the “tres fronteras” of Paraguay, Brasil, and Argentina. Despite a little rain, Iguazu Falls was incredible, especially la Garganta del Diablo, the rain forest, the animals, birds and butterflies! After 3 days in Puerto Iguazu, we returned to Asuncion.

The "crew" in front of the "Garganta del Diablo", Iguazu Falls, Argentina

Unfortunately this was the end of our visit with Ashley and Tyler, who had to return home. There were lots of tears- so hard to see them go… They boarded a plane, and we, (Amber, Dave, Mark, and I), hopped on a bus to Argentina. We traveled through Resistencia, and Salta, finally ending up in San Pedro de Atacama, Chile. We took a two-day tour through the Atacama Desert, (the driest desert in the world), and the Salar de Uyuni, Bolivia, (the largest salt flat in the world)- breathtaking with red lakes, pink flamingos, and volcanos reaching 19,000ft- like being on another planet! We even stayed in a hotel constructed of salt, with rock salt floors!

Amber and Dave at the Salar de Uyuni, Bolivia

A night bus brought us to La Paz, Bolivia with busy street markets, colorful textiles, and women wearing bowler hats! Onward to Cuzco, Peru where we prepared for another big adventure- a four day trek to Machu Picchu. The trek was daunting at times, (where is the oxygen at 12,000ft?), and gave us a true appreciation for the Inca who used this trail for travel.

Mark and I dumped our backpacks to take a break on the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu in Peru.

We were rewarded with once in a life time scenery and glimpses of the past, especially as we rounded the corner to see Machu Picchu at sunrise, in all of its glory!

We made it! Our trek group posing in front of Machu Picchu.

The next morning, Amber and Dave hopped a flight back to the states, (more tears), and Mark and I boarded a bus to Copacabana, Bolivia. We stayed in hotel on the shore of Lake Titicaca, (highest navegable lake in the world), enjoyed this beautiful place and rested our weary bones.

 Women near booths selling decorations for "the blessing of the cars" in Copacabana, Bolivia

We next headed to Santa Cruz, Bolivia, where we boarded another bus and finished the last leg of our journey back to Asuncion.

In all- Five countries, fascinating destinations, interesting cultures, beautiful scenery, awe-inspiring adventures, and incredible opportunities- my favorite part, you ask?

The best Christmas gift, ever…. Spending precious time with our fascinating, interesting, beautiful, inspiring, incredible kids, (minus one- we missed you, Eliot!)!

Books for Kids!

Mark watches as the kids check out their new books!

It’s hard to imagine a school without books for kids, yet I read this was the case before our departure to Paraguay. I decided this was one way we could make a difference for the community in which we served. So, before we left the states we began the process, continued our work with the people in our community, and finally, last week, at an assembly, we presented one of our schools with a new library display case full of books! 

Susana, "Look at this!"

The kids were really excited, the teachers thankful, and we were happy to see the wonderful results of this collaborative process! With the desire to have as many minds and hands on this project as possible, the process went something like this:

1. Before leaving the states, I found a source of books in Spanish, from discontinued programs, that were headed for the recycler, and received gifts of books to contribute to this project.
2. For Christmas, our parents gifted each of us with an extra baggage fee, so we could each bring 50 pounds of books with us to Paraguay.
3. When our friends, Mary Jo and Charlie came to visit us, they each brought an additional 50 pounds of books for the project.
4. We started reading with kids during our Club de Libros every Saturday- these kids could not get enough of reading and listening to books! Though this was a successful project, we were concerned about its sustainability after we returned to the states, and knew we had to take it to an institutional level, sooo….
5. We talked with teachers and the principals at both schools to get input on the project. We also talked about training and how the books might be utilized in the classrooms and with individual students, including: a system for check out and borrowing; care of books; and strategies for read alouds, silent reading, and developing strategies for building comprehension.
6. We met with the Comision de Padres about funding a display case for the books, after creating a design and consulting with a local carpenter. They decided to fund the project!
7. Next, we worked with the carpenter on the final touches on the design of the project. After two meetings and lots of sketches, we all met at the school for final approval of the design and price.
8. The carpenter finished the project- it turned out exactly as we had hoped!
9. Our next task was to get the case to the school… the local police station had a pickup, so we asked them to transport the display case from the carpenter’s house to the school. Mark and I held on to the case in the back of the police truck as they headed down the bumpy road to the school!
10. We then worked with students at the school to apply varnish to the bookcase. They were curious about what we were doing and very eager to help!

    

    Kids adding the finishing touches to the new book display!

11. The following week we brought 250 books to the school, and with the help of the kids, stocked the new display. When the Comision de Padres save enough for an additional book display, the remaining 250 books will be taken to the school.
12. Finally, during a school assembly, we presented the completed project to the school with thanks to all involved! And thanks to all of you for your help, offers to help and good thoughts along the way!

    

    Presenting the new books at a school assembly, along with a few rules for taking care of books!

Finally, after over a year in the works, the teachers and students in Arazape have books! Books for: teaching tools, reading for pleasure, reading aloud, learning about new ideas and places, and just having time to hold a book in their hands and dream…..

Clases de Ingles

Teaching English language classes was not part of our plan when we considered project goals for our service. So, when a woman inquired about English classes for her daughter, I asked her to send her daughter to speak to me, thinking that would be the end of it.

It wasn’t long before Zoila approached us, asking for help. She explained that she was enrolled in an English class at the colegio. The problem was, however, that her teacher didn’t actually know how to speak English. Instruction consisted of copying sentences in English from the blackboard, silently. Zoila knew she needed to hear the language and actually practice speaking to learn English.

Practicing English and making Bean Burgers

So… that is how our Conversational English class began, from our house, 6 hours per week, 4 committed students. We talk a lot, study new vocabulary by theme, use sentence frames to prompt conversation, and focus on forms and functions. This energetic group of 16-18 year-olds don’t hesitate to laugh at each other and themselves, as they practice aloud and improve with each session. They decided to commit to 100 hours of instruction/practice, after which, we will be authorized to provide them official certificates issued by the SNPP, (Servicio Nacional de Promocion Professional), under the Paraguayan Ministry of Justice and Work.

Other Projects- making glass planters and earrings, while practicing English

It wasn’t long before younger siblings and other kids took note of the English classes. Now Mark also teaches a class for younger kids. They have so much fun learning and “acting out the words”, no one wants the class to end!

Mark's English Class

We know this project is not sustainable. When we leave Arazape, the classes will end. But being the only English speakers in our town, how could we refuse to help these kids? And who knows? Helping them gain some English skills may even give them a leg up on preparing for the university or getting a better job.

 

Talkin’ Trash

 

Few communities in Paraguay have garbage collection service and Arazape is no exception. Here trash is either buried, burned, or just left in piles. Community members identified trash in the streets as a concern, according to the survey we conducted when we moved to Arazape. A seventh grade teacher asked me to help her teach lessons to raise awareness about trash and to help educate students about recycling and re-purposing. It has been a lot of fun working with these kids and helping them to connect with the needs of their community.

Decomposition time lines in groups

Topics we have covered so far have included: separating inorganics from organics and creating compost; separating inorganics and recovering recyclable materials; creating a decomposition timeline; and creative uses for re-purposed items.

How long does that take to decompose?!

Each lesson has been followed by a project where we re-purpose trash to create a useful item. So far, students have created: wallets from milk cartons; bracelets from plastic bags; baskets from plastic soda bottles, and planters from cutting glass bottles.

Baskets from plastic bottles

All of these items will be on display at the end of the school-year celebration, which will raise the awareness of other students and community members, as well. Next step will be to work with the school to start a recycling pilot program, with kids taking the lead in teaching other kids and talking to the intendente of the municipalidad about a way to transport the materials to the recycling collection facility, which is an hour away.

Mark holding the bottle as a student cuts it with wire and friction

The finished product- Que lindo!

If the recycling project works within the school, our next step will be to branch out into the community. Ideally, we will be working with the teacher to support kids as they take this on as a class project within their community.

Making adjustable bracelets from plastic bags

So, this is this kind of trash talk that’s been going on here in our community. Hopefully the stars align and the project comes to fruition- development work takes a lot of time and finger crossing!

My English class students show off their glass cutting skills!

Ch-ch-ch-changes

Blancita's family planting their new tree

 After 8 months in site, I thought it was a good time to reflect on some of the changes we've experienced since we first arrived. Here are a few that come to mind....

* When we do our laundry, our neighbors no longer stare when they see Mark doing, “women’s work.” Also, I don’t get scabs on my knuckles from scrubbing anymore! 

From the wash buckets to the barbed wire fence to dry

* I am no longer afraid of getting shocked by our shower head. Our hot water is heated at the source, and electrical wires run right into the shower head. Mark has said that he touched it and didn’t get shocked. I’m content to keep my hands far away from the place where water and electricity mix!  

Would YOU touch this thing???

* Though far from being fluent, my language skills are improving, gone are the days of memorizing a phrase at a time, and trying to create a dialogue in my head before approaching someone. I even find myself “getting” the jokes and telling a few of my own. Though, I do have to admit, in the English class that I’m teaching I had my students roaring with laughter. Instead of saying that in the Fall, the leaves, (hojas), fell from the trees, I said eyes, (ojos), fell from the trees. Oops! 

 * I no longer reach for the flusher, only to find it’s not there. I instead grab the string and pull. And, not to get too graphic, but the toilet paper now always makes it’s way into the wastebasket instead of mistakenly dropped in the toilet.

 * We built a “lombricera” for our worms, so they have moved from a fruit crate in our kitchen to a more spacious brick house, outside. Many Paraguayans are terrified of the worms, but are really curious about our great veggies yields. Worm castings make amazing fertilizer!

My first masonry project- lombricera made of bricks and mud

* I never thought I’d see the day, but I can now officially say I like mondongo, (cow stomach), and batibarillo, (random chopped internal organs in a rich brown gravy). I prefer my cow stomach coated and fried in pig grease, (milanesa).

* We no longer dread trying to maneuver the public transit system in Asuncion. When we first used the buses in Asuncion, we once ended up at the dump, another time at the end of the bus line, in the middle of nowhere!  We now know the collectivo numbers that can get us to most parts of the city.

Mark's prized cauliflower

* We now spend more time eating and sharing vegetables from our garden, than we do working in our garden. Our neighbor always seems to return the favor by turning the fresh veggies into something fried called a tortilla, (a mixture of flour, egg, salt, cheese, and vegetables, dropped by the spoonful into hot oil to fry until crispy). I think it is our way of meeting in the middle- they’ll eat the veggies if we prepare them their way. I reciprocate by eating the tortillas, which, I have to admit, are delicious!  

Fresh veggies from our garden that escaped the tortilla!

* Many of the people who I used to say hello to in the streets and then walk quickly by, have become friends. I find myself going out to run an errand, only to stop and drink terrere with someone and catch up on the latest, or discuss the possibility of a garden, planting trees, or the best time to plant mandioca, (during the new moon of course!).  

Ramona's whole family pose with their newly planted tree

  * We're in the planning stages, working with the school Principals and   Comisiones de Padres to open school libraries, and get books in the hands of kids! Right now we're working on getting funding to buy book displays, developing a plan for how the books will be used in the school, training for staff and students... one step at a time.

One of our planning charts

  *  I used to consider this experience as an avenue to give and share of myself. I have discovered the many gifts, I instead, have received from Paraguayans- unhurried time and patience as I try to find the correct words to convey what I am trying to say; food from their kokues, though there may not be much to share; continued informal lessons in Guarani, they just won’t give up on me!; a third generation artesania sharing her art of crochet, we all laughed together as my fingers fumbled through the process, but in the end I was able to produce a hat!; the warm and welcoming feeling we have received by this wonderful community which may look poor, but is so rich in the gifts the people so freely share.

My Handmade Crocheted Hat- Thanks Lidia!

Dia de Arbol- Yes, It’s Another Celebration!

Dia de Arbol!

My most recent blog posts have been about parties, festivals and celebrations. So, what about the work you may be wondering, you know, the actual volunteerism part of the adventure?

Well first of all, our main task as Peace Corps Volunteers is about development. It would be so much easier to build a structure, dig a well, or buy something needed and give it to the people. Development work takes time- it takes developing language skills, building relationships, learning about the culture, listening to Paraguayans and talking to them about what they want for their community. Then, development work is about finding members in the community who are interested in developing a plan, and helping them to lead the charge, or at least be active participants.

One event that I feel encompassed many of the elements listed above was our recent "Dia de Arbol", (Day of the Tree), celebration, which took place at two different schools, involving about 190 people. From a development perspective:

1. We conducted a Community Survey, (in Guarani), and  discovered that planting more trees in the community was a high priority item for the people in Arazape.
2. I surveyed the teachers in the school, (Pre escolar- sixth grade). Nearly all of them  indicated they were interested in a "Dia de Arbol" celebration.
3. Together with teachers, community members, and other volunteers, we created a program that would involve every class in the school.
   

   

   Third Graders "Ham it Up" for a Picture

4. Together, the teachers and I, worked to practice with each class four times prior to the event. During this time I modeled alternate instructional methods, and was able to see teachers try some of these techniques as well!
   

   

   Second Graders Perform Their Chant

5. Next, after all the arrangements, preparations, and practice, the event was cancelled! When it rains or even looks like it will rain, school is cancelled. This is where I developed more patience….
6. A date was rescheduled for the celebration. I talked with 5 students from the colegio, (high school), about volunteering to help with the event.
7. Finally the big day arrived! The most exciting part about this project was that kids were teaching other kids about trees: Pre-escolar and first grades teamed up to sing the parts of the tree in Guarani, complete with hand/body motions; Second grade performed a chant about caring for trees, including visuals; Third grade taught their peers about valuing trees and the many gifts they provide; Fourth grade shared information about resources provided by trees and created a tree using props; Fifth grade demonstrated the process for correctly planting a tree; and Sixth graders each illustrated a page from Shel Silverstein’s book, The Giving Tree, (El Arbol Generoso, in Spanish), and read the story to the audience.
   

   

   Kids teaching Kids!

8. Next, every class, using their newly acquired skills, planted a tree at the school. These were trees grown from seeds collected in the community and started by kids in our neighborhood six months in advance!
   

   

   Mark Helps Pre-schoolers Plant Their Tree

9. Finally, volunteers led tree related activities in the school patio, for the kids to enjoy: leaf prints in homemade play dough; leaf sorting and categorizing; drawing and coloring your favorite tree; and pin, (well, tape), the leaf on the tree while blindfolded, (and really dizzy).
   

   

   Volunteers Lead "Pin the Leaf on the Tree"

The result? From the perspective of new learning, proud kids and parents, lots of fun, and most importantly, development on many levels- SUCCESS! So, as you can see, I have found a way to celebrate while I work- now that sounds Paraguayan!

When the Going Gets Tough… the Not So Tough Make Cinnamon Rolls

I’m sitting here in my down jacket with a cup of hot mate in my hands. It seems so strange to be experiencing winter in July! We have been finding creative ways to stay warm, dry, and in good spirits during the our first winter in Paraguay…

 

1. Make Cinnamon Rolls- they are warm and delicious and remind us of home! Also, after we remove the rolls from our small oven, we leave the door open to help warm the house as it cools. Also, holding the pan on our laps, warms our legs and helps the rolls cool more quickly. 

2. Suave Hot Water Bottle- Fill an empty shampoo bottle with boiling water, then carry it around with you or put it next to your cold parts. A great way to warm up those cold feet! Don’t forget to use a plastic bag as a gasket for the lid to avoid leaks- Mark’s handy work.

3. Rain Proof- We put a rain poncho on top of the mosquito net that covers our bed. This stops the rain that leaks from the roof from getting our blankets wet. Pots and pans work, too, though tend to slide to the center of the net.

 

4. Christmas in July Party- we recently got together with 17 other volunteers at a hostel in Asuncion and cooked dinner, wore ugly sweaters from thrift stores, traded Secret Santa gifts, and shared Christmas traditions from home. We had a great fun catching up about stories from “site” and spending time together!   A pirate on stilts even made an appearance, (“Who was that guy?!”).

 

5. Work With It- Try to make “steam rings” come out of your mouth, while drinking your morning coffee.

6. Good Old Physical Work- to get the blood moving. Whether helping our neighbors harvest mandioca, relocating baby Tajy trees for transplanting from an area to be burned; digging in the garden; or helping Paraguayan farmer clear brush before the tractor arrives.

7. Buy a Wool Blanket- The artisans in Arazape make amazingly heavy, beautiful handmade wool blankets! The one we bought keeps us toasty at night.

8. Go to a Festival, Wedding, or Celebration- In Paraguay, social gatherings are always accompanied by loud music and the opportunity to dance the night away- a great way to stay warm and have fun!

9. Wool Socks- Our first pair from Amber and Dave, then, Ashley and Eliot recently sent a pair to each of us. They are so soft and fluffy and warm, (the socks).

10. Getting Cards, Letters and Emails from Home- warms the heart, every time!  

    

    Our Family and Friends "Shrine"

    
    

Festival de Virgen del Carmen

Paraguayans know how to celebrate, and the festival of the Virgen del Carmen, patron saint of Arazape, was no exception. The festivities lasted for a week, then culminated in the grand finale that started at 7:00am and ended at around 11:00pm that evening. This is an event that the entire community looks forward to every year.

Mark and the kids wait for their turn

Tents were put up near the plaza, by a group of carnies, housing a hand operated Merry Go Round, games of chance, two shops selling trinkets and toys, three food booths, and three cantinas. If the tents didn’t catch your eye, the blaring music was certainly the advertisement that would ensure everyone would visit, at least once!

 During the week, The Virgen del Carmen, who is also the Virgin Mary, (long story), was carried from the church in a procession to each of the 11 barrios of Arazape, to bless the people and renew their faith.

Virgen del Carmen

On the last day of the festival, the final procession was made around the main square of Arazape, with everyone meeting at the church for a mass.  The fire for the “estaca” was reduced to coals and ready for the skewered meat, the beer and soda iced, with plenty of cana, (sugar cane alcohol), on hand for the day’s festivities. A traveling band provided music for the event, as well as groups with guitars and accordions.

The horse events, held in front of the church, took most of the morning. 

Grabbing the ring from the corncob

 The events included: pulling a ring from a corn cob suspended from a cross above the rider’s heads; horse jumping; and swooping to pick up a cana bottle, (an impromptu challenge by a member of the audience).

Taking a break between events

Lots of meat eating, alcohol drinking, and visiting followed near the church, including numbers and letters being announce for a Bingo fundraiser.

A make shift bullring, complete with bleachers was set up overnight in the soccer field, and the evening culminated in a “Torin” or bullfight of sorts. The bull was let into the ring, with a rider on his back. Three matadors with capes harassed the bull until it was tired and finally gave up. The best part was the clowns who entertained the kids and had everyone laughing. The next morning the entire set-up was dismantled and gone before the sun came up!

Diana and I at the bullfight

The event was a great time to connect with neighbors, whether during mass, over a bottle of cana, or snuggling to stay warm during the “Torin.” There was something for everyone, which brought with it a sense of community, all in honor of the Virgen del Carmen!

Wedding- Paraguayan Style

It was exciting to be among “only family” invited to Anibal and Claudia’s wedding, last night. It was a beautiful ceremony in the only church in Arazape, followed by a reception at their home. The wedding began at 7:30pm and the reception went well beyond 12:00am, (when we went home).

Felicidades Claudia y Anibal!

The vows were amazingly similar to traditional wedding vows in the states, other than they were in Guarani in addition to Spanish. Claudia wore a white dress with a fuzzy white jacket, a gorgeous bride, who skipped the long johns despite the freezing weather, (it’s winter here!). I know this, because at the reception, instead of the groom tossing the garter, he “transferred it.” Claudia wore ten garters, and one at a time, a single woman sat across from her, placed the sole of her foot against Claudia’s and Anibal transferred the garter from Claudia’s thigh to the other woman’s. The significance? I’m not sure- I still need to ask about this one.

Claudia- the beautiful bride!

There was a variety of genre of music blasting from 2 columns of 8-foot tall speakers! We all danced to a variety of music from traditional Guarani, to polka, to more modern Spanish selections. Imagine our surprise when Credence made their entrance with “Rollin” and “Stuck in Lodi, Again”!

“What about the food?” you ask. In a word, MEAT! Cooking meat for large groups is an art form here in Paraguay. A week ago, Mark and Teodocio went into the forest in search of “palitos,” long thin branches, carefully selected so as not to transfer flavoring to the meat, but also hard enough to withstand the heat from the cooking fire. Large chunks of meat are skewered onto the stakes, which are then hammered into the dirt in a circle around the fire. The meat is carefully turned and roasted in this manner for about 7 hours. Simmering along side the meat was a large pot of batiburillo, a specialty in Misiones. Batiburillo consists of all the internal organs of the recently killed cow, cut into small pieces, cooked in brown gravy, with a stick of mandioca on the side. Actually- quite delicious!

The MEAT!

The wedding cake looked much like a traditional wedding cake in the states, with one exception- it had 20 ribbons sticking out of the cake from the various layers. As the bride and groom began to cut the cake, the single women each pulled a ribbon out. The woman with the ribbon that had a ring tied to the other end will be the next to be married, as the tradition goes.

Teodocio and Mark Take a Break

Of course, the element that transcends the cultures was joy and happiness. Claudia’s voice wavered as she tried to hold back the tears during her vows, Moms and God Mothers cried, Anibal got lots hearty slaps on the back from his brothers, and the dancing and celebrating went well into the night!

Felicitaciones Anibal y Claudia!