Celebrating Christmas- Paraguayan Style

Feliz Navidad!

Welcoming a couple of Nortes into their home for a Christmas celebration was a first observation of the hospitality and amistad of the Paraguayan people. It was interesting to observe the different ways the same holiday is celebrated, as well as the similarities. Here we go, Christmas, Paraguayan style!

The festivities began well before Christmas. Instead of a tree, a Navidad crèche is decorated outside of the family home. Our host brother and sister did a fine job!

As in the states, a feast is prepared. In Paraguay, a cow was killed for the celebration. Every part was used, from the stomach/intestines; to the head with horns, tongue, eyes in tact, (cooked whole); to the forelegs with hooves still attached; to the hide. Though some of these delicacies were not my favorites, (brain scooped from the spinal column in the back of the skull), I did appreciate the way the entire animal was used, leaving little waste behind.

The feast, which began at 11:00pm on the eve of the Navidad, also included a special fruit punch called “clarico.” A 5 gallon bucket was filled with about 20 pounds of chopped fruit, (brought in from Asuncion), bottles of red wine, champagne, and cana, (distilled sugar cane juice). It was hard to limit ourselves, fresh fruit is a rare treat here!

As 12:00 neared, the sound of "bombas" filled the air. The firecrackers, lit on a coal from the asado, were thrown with excitement by two 5 year-old boys. The countdown then began, and at midnight, hugs, kisses, and “felicidades!” were exchanged. There was talk of going to the Polidiportivo to join in the music and dancing, but we opted to stick close to home.

On the morning of the Navidad, the feasting, conversation, and time spent with family continued on into the evening. Gifts did not seem to be an important part of this holiday, as they are in the states- the people seemed just as happy, though.

Being so far from home and away from family and friends during the holidays was not easy for us. But, if we had to choose another place and family to be with, we were exactly where we’d choose to be. 

Feliz Navidad, Merry Christmas, and Happy New Year!!!

Just Where You Are- That's The Place To Start. -Pema Chodron

We have arrived in Arazape! 

We have settled in and are living with a wonderful family who have graciously invited us to spend the holidays with them. They have 11 grown children, grandkids, and lots of extended family members, so it should be a good-sized crowd! A cow has been "selected" for the feast. At the last family gathering we ate carpincho, (capybara), an endangered species? Argh!
We have located a house that we hope to rent, (in about 5 weeks), complete with inside bathroom and kitchen. Chuchi! The rent is 300,000 guaranis, (about $70 US dollars per month).                   
We have begun our work as Peace Corps volunteers, by starting to conduct a community needs assessment. What is this, you may be wondering? Well, we created 15 questions in Guarani and are visiting people in their homes to collect information that will guide the type of work we do during the next 2 years. Here's the challenge: first- pronounce the words in Guarani well enough, so our questions can be understood. Secondly- listen carefully, trying to decipher as much as possible, and get something written down. It's actually a pretty exhausting experience with our limited Guarani and Spanish. Fortunately, Paraguayans are very welcoming and patient, and are helping us to collect important information about the community, the strengths and needs.
I have also been brainstorming with our host sister about starting an environmental day camp for the jovenes. At this point, we're just starting to pull some ideas together.
As I am completing this journal entry, our Paraguayan family is putting the finishing touches on the Navidad creche; firecrackers, beeping motos, and Yeehas! celebrate the Olimpia victory, (Futbol), and music blares from the patio.
There you have it, our first 5 days in site as official Peace Corps volunteers.
:) Hasta luegomante.

Dear Maxwell Third Graders,

Through  Peace Corps World Wise Schools, I am corresponding with a third grade class at awesome Maxwell Elementary! This is just a sampling of some of our first experiences here in Paraguay, complete with photos, (now that I have had a little time to figure out how to post photos- thanks for the nudge, Ash).

  Dear Maxwell Elementary Third Graders,

I hope you are all happy, having fun at recess and reading every day! I miss you all and everyone at Maxwell, so I wanted to write and let you know that I am doing well and learning lots about Paraguay and the wonderful people who live here.

Did you know that I was going to school just like you? I just finished with 2 and a half months of Guarani language class and lessons about the environment and culture in Paraguay. I worked hard, completed my homework every night, and gave my personal best, just like you do every day at Maxwell.

I am sending some pictures to show you some of my daily experiences here in Paraguay. I hope you enjoy them:

This was my first home in Paraguay!

I help cook over an open fire in the kitchen.

I wash my clothes by hand in a scrub sink

I say "Mba eichapa nekoe" (good morning) to my neighbor every morning as he heads to work in the sugar cane fields.

I plant trees with kids and learn about reforestation.

I learn technical skills with other volunteers,

then walk about 2 miles to get home, enjoying beautiful scenery!

 Two days ago, Mr. Alves and I completed our training and swore-in as official Peace Corps volunteers. We celebrated with other volunteers and Antolina, the woman we stayed with the past 10 weeks.
In two days we will move to our new Paraguayan community, Arazape, to begin our our Peace Corps service. We are very excited to get started with work and service!

Keep working hard at school and I will do the same here in Paraguay.

Love,
Mrs. Alves

Queso Paraguayo!

Queso Paraguayo!

Many Paraguayans own a cow or two  for milk production for home consumption. A well-loved milk product is the ever-popular Queso Paraguayo, (Paraguayan cheese).  I had the opportunity to learn how to make this cheesy goodness and wanted to share this cultural experience with you. So, get your recipe cards out and let’s get started!

1. First, warm the milk up to a little warmer than skin temperature. (We cook over an open fire in our kitchen. The hen in the cupboard raised a healthy brood of 12 chicks, and the duck is setting on 6 eggs in the other corner. This is also a popular hang out for the family dogs.

2. Second, find a section of cow stomach/intestine, (cleaned), and submerge it into the warm milk. Next, lift it in and out of the pot of milk about 10 times.

3. Third, remove the milk from the heat, remove the cow stomach, and stir the milk with your hands. The curds will gradually begin to form and separate from the whey.

4. Fourth, lift the curds and place in a cheese mold, pressing firmly.

5. Fifth, allow the cheese to drain and remove from the mold in about three hours.

And there you have it! Paraguayans put cheese in many dishes to add flavor, including: soups, empanadas, eggs, corn bread, and chipa. Ah, chipa- chipa deserves a blog post all to itself, so stay tuned! 

50th in Paraguay!

Ten cuidado- this post may not be suitable for those with weak stomachs...

Yes- I shared my 50th B-day with the Peace Corps 50th Anniversary!

My 50th brought with it much time communing with nature and some interesting desicion making..... Do I have time to run to the outhouse to puke? Do I really want to go to the outhouse to puke? In the end, my body made the decision for me- around the corner, in the grass suited me fine. :)
Then, body awareness continues, even at 50. How long do you have after intense internal swishing sounds, followed by the "rush to the gate", before you need to swing that outhouse door shut? Happily, the self control I´ve developed over the years helped me to remain an outsider to the popular, "I crapped my pants" trainee club, even though the president was hoping to increase membership...
After an herbal remedy prepared by Antolina- a tea brewed with plantain root, a Clean Canteen filled with boiled water and a little rice with cheese, I was as good as new!
The icing on the cake was the visits from fellow trainees, despite my ability to unknowingly share the dreaded chivivi. :) Lots of B-day wishes, hand made cards, a b-day crown, a beautiful ao poi blusa, a b-day card from the states, (thanks Mom!), and a special card from my Maxwell buddy Kim, (Thanks!), and my entire conservation environment group sporting black in my honor. :)
Despite a rough start to the day, overall, I had a great 50th b-day in Paraguay. I just need to look at the gorgeous scenery that greets me every time I open the door to my casita- I´m living in the Heart of South America- Paraguay!

Wielding a machete, (and keeping all of your body parts intact)

Learning tecnical skills is part of the training we are all receiving in PC Paraguay. As part of a huerta, (garden), project, we built a fence made of bamboo, using machetes. Some things to consider in the fine art of machete wielding:
1. Locate your feet and legs- do not allow the machete to come in contact with them.

2. Maintain a safe distance between you non-wielding hand and the machete.

3. Sharpen your spatial awareness- good friends don´t let friends wildly swing machetes, especially near them!

Once the ground rules were set, we went to work splitting and quartering four foot long sections of bamboo. These were lashed to bamboo cross members, attached to fence posts.
Our bamboo fence turned out great and will do a fine job of protecting our garden from the chickens, ducks, dogs, and cows that live on the farm. Not to mention the awesome machete skills we learned in the process!

Cultural Discoveries!

When you come to visit Paraguay, (and I know you will), here are a few cultural adaptations you may encounter. Here are a few of my observations in the form of a top 10 list...

1. If you want to say hello, don´t say "Hola", instead say, "Adio".

2. If you want to say goodbye, don´t say "Adios", instead say, "Chao".

3. To visit someone´s house, don´t knock on the door. Instead, outside of the property, clap, clap, clap your hands until someone comes out, then exclaim, "buen dia!"

4. Get rid of the dinner bread basket, replace it with a steamimg bowl of mandioca.

5. A regular medical check up may include vaccinations for: Yellow fever, Hepetitas A and B, Rabies, Typhus, and tetnus.

6. Get rid of your germ phobias and get ready to share a bombilla and guampa, (a special cup and straw that are shared with everyone in the group), filled with delicious terere, (cold yerba mate), while enjoying conversations with visitors to your home.

7. Slow down- long pauses during conversation are the norm while sharing terere.

8. Be prepared to assume "moto formation" while walking in groups as several motos will be passing you on your trek.

9. Enjoy your fruits and veggies in the states- these are seasonal in the campo and are not available year round- like now :).

10. Be ready yell a friendly "Adio!" to every house or moto or house you pass- Paraguayans have to be some of the friendliest people in the world!

Chao!

Rivers are roads which move, and which carry us whither we desire to go. - Pascal

Even though it´s only been one week since we set foot on Paraguayan soil there is so much to share. What an amazing place! I´ll try to give you some highlights of our experiences so far... Here we go:

 1. Living Situation- we´re living together! Yeay! (Peace Corps originally told us we would have to live separatly for training). We live with a woman and her two sons in a little house in the campo on a dirt road. The family has been so kind and welcoming. They are very patient with our stuttering Spanish, and teach us new words in Guarani every day. We also share our house with ducks, chickens, and cows.  We do have electricity and running water- very chuchi! We have our own room with an earth floor and even a fan. Our outdoor bathroom has a flush toilet and a cold water shower. We wash our clothes with buckets of water in a cement scrub sink. We use the same bucket for washing our faces and brushing our teeth, while waving to the ox cart man every morning!
2. Surroundings- The landscape is lush and green with lots of trees and wildflowers. The main crops grown in the area are mandioca, (cassava root), and sugar cane.
3. Food- Lots of meat and mandioca. Because it is Spring here, there are not many fruits or vegetables yet. Antolina always gives us huge amounts of food- I think she´s trying to fatten us up!
4. New Learning- Cooking over an open fire in the kitchen; making cheese with milk and cow intestines; washing clothes on a scrub sink; flagging down the collectivo, (bus); identifying herbs in the area used as natural remedies; and working hard to learn Guarani, the indiginous language of Paraguay.
5. Training sessions- We have about four hours of language class in Guarani 6 days a week with homework every night. The other half of the day is spent learning about self-care in remote locations and getting shots- Rabies and Yellow Fever). We´ve been learning about Paraguayan culture and how to navagate and get around in this area.The other trainees are great, most of whom are in their 20´s with one other couple older than us! :) We are all working hard together and forming some close bonds, already. Our teachers and PC staff are fantastic, too! We will complete our training in 9 more weeks , ( then will be assigned our permanent site). 
6. Awesome extras- There are fireflies ; toads as big as softballs; lots of red dirt roads; amazing electrical storms with torrential downpours; lots of warm and friendly people; and two marraige proposals for Tyler based on our family photo, (muy guapo hijo!).
  The direction in which the river carries us is a good one, we can´t wait to see what´s beyond the bend!                                                                                                                                                           

Reflections

Can miles truly separate you from friends….If you want to be with someone you love, aren’t you already there?                ~Richard Bach

The countdown has begun- just 13 days until we leave for our Peace Corps training in Paraguay. It seemed like a good time to reflect on our summer and the amazing family and friends we were fortunate to spend time with and who included us in their life celebrations and milestones. Here’s a snap shot….

• Our daughter Ashley and new son-in-law Eliot’s wedding!

• End of the Year Bash and Farewell to my Maxwell team

• Our son Tyler graduated from college with his degree in Civil Engineering

• Whitnie’s Baby Shower; Lori’s Birthday Party; Ben’s Farewell Party; Dennis’ Wedding; Stephanie’s Bridal Shower; and Mike’s Retirement Party

• Road trip to Washington to visit Bob and Kathleen- Hey Dinner for 10 group!

• 22^nd Annual New Brighton Beach Camping Trip with the gang!

• A week at an Intensive Language Institute in South Lake Tahoe

• 3 days in Yosemite checking out Tyler’s favorite climbing routes, hiking in Tuolomne, and having dinner at the “Mobile”. 

• Laughing, eating, kayaking, talking, getting new “ya-ya names”, and hiking with 8 great friends of the SHCOMs.

• Hearing all about our daughter Amber and son-in-law Dave’s crazy/amazing Burning Man trip

• Alves- Abreu Family reunion at the farm

• Farewell lunches with the RCIS gang

• Packed up our home of 20 years, with some help from our kids, and found “foster homes” for our 2 horses, 4 chickens and dog.

• Our awesome kids presented us with a 30^th Anniversary/ Farewell party!

                 

What an amazing summer, spending time with the people we care about most! The circle of love created by this mix of family and friends is truly a powerful force- how fortunate we are to be a part of it all.

There is a saying, “You are drawn to those from whom you most need to learn.” The lessons, joy, and contributions brought to our lives by our family, friends and colleagues have been formative and lasting. In this way, we take you all with us. 

Abrazos

Grabbed by the Wrist

Another turning point, a fork stuck in the road. Time grabs you by the wrist, directs you where to go.. ~Green Day

On the last day at the school where I served as Principal for the past nine years, I packed the final box, made the rounds for one last hug, and removed the name placard from my office door. A few reflections as I pulled out of the school parking lot:

* I had the opportunity to work with a team who had the courage to try new things, adjust to new systems, and continue to persist and insist on putting kids first.

*  Kids are brilliant, amazing, resilient, not so resilient; courageous; intuitive; transparent, small people who give their opinions and hugs freely.

* Sitting down with a colleague/friend for a quick coffee and debrief at a conference, only to realize four hours had passed.

* Magic carpet rides; double chocolate brownies; staff vs. 6th grade soccer games; year end toasts; crazy costumes; Dancing with my "Soul Sisters" and brothers; wild tractor rides, rocks with ribbons, and "Aha moments."

* Brainstorming with staff over the "tough stuff" and discovering a team who has equal amounts of instructional expertise AND moral purpose.

What a privilege it's been....

The fork in the road is in front of me. Until I return from my leave of absence and the path that has led me to service in the Peace Corps, hasta luego, adios and mucho abrazos!

Invited!

Update,
  Thank you all for your support on our goal. We have officially heard from the Peace Corps that we are invited to Paraguay leaving in late September. I have waited to update everyone because of recent discovery that many applicants have been receiving letters explaining the Peace Corps would not be placing any more volunteers in their field this year. The Peace Corps is experiencing the same budget crisis everyone else is.
 
  The good news; Sue is assigned to an Enviromental Education position which is awesome since she will be educating Paraguayans on issues using Science which is part of her favorite teaching subjects. Her extensive background in Education will enable her to work with Paraguayans of all ages and backgrounds. Teaching others to teach each other will make her endeavors sustainable.
                           Mark is assigned to Agricultural Extension Agent working with Farm Families. Most Farms in Paraguay are small family operations and they have issues with production and erosion issues. Over use of Chemicals and Mega-farms from nieghboring countries grabbing land have sent locals into the Forest to reclaim land to make a living. I will work with other Ag Extensionists to assist families in retaining soil and lowering inputs so agricultural products will be more economic and profitable. I will also help families find alternative products and markets to enable them to live more comfortable productive lives.

  Please, let the questions flow. We will be learning and finding out more about our assignments as we go along. Your questions will help us to be better prepared for our adventure. Again thank you that have helped us get to where we are today. The application process is long and daunting with many hurdles along the way. There is no way we could be where we are without the help we asked of you all.

Sue has started a Blog (yes Sue did it) that you can follow us on our adventure. We will try to update it often. The title is Twokeepgrowing. http://twokeepgrowing.blogspot.com

We are on a super high right now. We will update you again soon.
Thanks again for everything!
Woo-Hoo (whooping for joy)!!!!

An-ti-ci-pa-tion...

An-ti-ci-a-pa-tion.........

This is the latest communication we recieved from the placement desk:

Hello Mark and Susan,

I am writing to let you know that the post I was considering you for unfortunately did not feel that your skill sets were a good fit for their programmatic availability.  This means we will  not be moving forward with the interview process.  Please keep in mind that this is in no way indicative of your skill sets, but rather the site availability in that post.  I will return your applications to your appropriate Skill Desk, in your case the Agriculture and Environment Desk, where your Placement Specialist will work to find a new program that matches up with your skill sets and backgrounds.  Please keep in mind that couples placement can take a bit longer because we want to ensure that both of you have viable projects.  You have already been qualified for Placement, though, so it is my hope that we will be able to identify a new program as soon as possible.  Please do not hesitate to contact me with any questions or concerns and I thank you for your patience.

The placement officer told us that if the post mentioned above did not work out, she would be saving a spot for us with a departure date in late September. So... we will continue to study Spanish, create check off lists of things to take care of before we leave, spend quality time with family and friends, and enjoy this beautiful Spring weather!

What's your prediction?

So, today the placement officer told us that she was sending our resumes to a specific country for consideration due to our "unique skill sets." She said that our work would likely be in a "more urban setting, working with governmental counterparts", and to expect communication from the country office for an interview. Our new nomination is for Central/South America working in Agriculture /Environmental education with a new departure date in August or September. Where do you think we are headed?